Tailor’s first fitting of a coat

Made by Gillman, Ron in Wagga Wagga, New South Wales, 1969.

The craft of tailoring gradually developed in Europe from the twelfth century. In Australia, tailors were once a common sight in country towns and suburban main streets. Before the 1800s a suit ‘made to order’ was reserved for the wealthy. By the late 1800s increasing numbers of Australian working men had at least one good suit as a sign of respectability. Suits could be purchased ready-made, made to measure from a local tailor or the fabric and style could be chosen at a men’s wear store and th...

Summary

2007/127/11
Tailor's first fitting of a coat, wool / cardboard / cotton / horse hair, made by Ron Gillman, Wagga Wagga, New South Wales, Australia, 1969

A first fitting of a coat. The coat is made of green tweed. Parts of the coat have a stiff interlining material that's cream in colour and contains horse hair. A brown coloured material is also used on the coat. The coat has one arm and where the other arm would be attached to the body the padding for the shoulder can be seen. The coat has a collar, a lapel and three pockets. On the material there are many loose cream and black stiches. On the inside of the coat 'Mullumby' is written in pencil. This is the surname of the person who ordered the coat.

Attached to the coat by thread is a cardboard label. In blue pen '17-3-1969' is written. Printed on the card are personal and style details that a tailor would collect from the customer. Choices have been made on this label using pen and measurement have been written on. The name is: 'Gillman - Mullumby'.

Dimensions

500 mm

Production

Made by Ron Gillman, Australia in 1969.
Gillman, Ron 1969

History

This first fitting of a coat came from Ron Gillman's tailor shop in Wagga Wagga. Ron was a third generation tailor. His grandfather, Joseph Gillman was a master tailor who arrived in the Riverina in 1883 from England. He established a tailoring business in the same year at Cootamundra and later in Hillston, Narrandera and Lockhart. Joseph and his wife had eight children, three of them boys. The three sons joined Joseph in his business and he taught them the trade. Two of the sons, Joseph Jnr and Maxwell opened a tailoring shop at 216 Baylis St Wagga Wagga in 1918. After eighteen months Joseph Jnr decided to start his own business and Maxwell carried on at Baylis St as M M Gillman. In 1932 Maxwell's son, Ron, went to work for his father at age 14 during the height of the Depression. During 1938 the business moved next door to 214 Baylis Street and in 1946 the business name was changed to M M Gillman & Son. Maxwell retired in 1949 and Ron took over the business.

Ron was trained to cut but did not do so until his father retired in 1949. Work done in the tailor shop was strictly divided along clear lines. For example, only the men did the 'tailoring' which was the hand sewing. The women were employed to machine sew straight seams and their wages were about half that of the men. There were eight people, the highest ever number, working in the shop in 1940. These included Maxwell, Ron and six women, two of whom were Ron's sisters.

Half of Ron's clients were farmers and half were working men. Professionals in the area took their tailoring requirements to Sydney. Much of a tailor's profit came from selling the material to make the suit. If a customer supplied the material profits were reduced. Ron said: 'that's the cream ... selling the material was the cream, making the job was the skim milk.' Prices were based on a day for a tailor to make a pair of trousers and four days for a two-piece suit.

Ron was a high class tailor. The styles of suits, jackets and pants that he made remained conservative over his career. Tailors sat cross-legged on their work bench, supporting the garment on their knees while they finished off by hand. Ron's workroom and those of his father and grandfather were behind the retail area that was at the front of the shop.

In 1970 Ron moved to the Nelso Arcade at 117 Baylis Street and he took as much of the old shop as he could. In 1992 he made his last suit, however he kept his shop open for alterations until November 2003 when he closed up shop.

Once a client ordered a coat he then came back to the tailor for a number of fittings. This coat is for the first fitting. There was one more fitting and then a final fitting. However, the client who ordered this coat, Mr Mullumby, never came to his first fitting. Correspondence between Mr Gillman and a friend or family member of Mr Mullumby suggest that he didn't have the funds to pay for the coat.
Gillman, Ron 1969

Source

Gift of Ron Gillman, 2007
17 September, 2007

Cite this Object

Tailor's first fitting of a coat 2014, Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, accessed 17 November 2017, <https://ma.as/366821>
{{cite web |url=https://ma.as/366821 |title=Tailor's first fitting of a coat |author=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences |access-date=17 November 2017 |publisher=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, Australia}}
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