Yoruba man’s indigo-dyed tunic, Nigeria

Made by Unknown (person) in Nigeria, c 1950 - 1960.

This man’s indigo-dyed tunic is a typical example of traditional dress worn by the Yoruba people of Nigeria in the early 20th century. The outfit formed part of a farewell gift from his father to Abiola Buhari, a young Yoruba man, when he married Australian Clare Maguire at the Registry Office in Lagos, Nigeria, in August 1997. The gift was made when the couple left Nigeria for Australia. Its significance relates to the Yoruba belief that the possession of gowns and valuable cloth equates to end...

Summary

2006/136/2
Tunic, mens, cotton, made by a Yoruba man, Nigeria, mid 1900s

The voluminous tunic is made from narrow strips of dark indigo blue striped hand woven cloth. The stripes are resist-dyed and the tunic is ornamented with hand embroidery around the neck opening and the pocket openings, over the front and on the back below the neckline. The neck is faced with light blue commercial cotton and the very full sleeves are faced with maroon striped cotton.

Dimensions

940 mm

Production

This striped, indigo dyed man's tunic has been made out of narrow 'asa-oke' (literally 'top cloth'). Each of the narrow stripes consists of bright blue alternating with the natural colour of the cotton, outlined in pale blue. The material for the tunic would have been bought in the local market and made up by a local tailor who would have added the selected embroidery by hand. The straight sewing around the neck and pocket openings is stem stitch, while the knot-like motifs (11 on the front and 1 on the back) are done in double chain stitch. The sleeves are as wide as the tunic is long and the bottom edge has gored inserts to give extra fullness, a variant of a northern-style robe developed by the Yoruba in which the two slit-like openings in the front originally enabled the wearer to hold the reins of a horse.

Asa-oke is made by Yoruba men who weave in communal groups of up to 20, using a narrow horizontal loom which has an extremely long, machine made cotton warp, stretching out as long as 12 meters in front of them. Two heddles are used with a reed for beating the cloth. The resulting material is usually a forty foot long piece which is just 4 inches (about 10cm) wide. When the long pieces of material have been completed, they are cut into strips which are either sewn into squares of cloth or sold as unsewn strips at local markets.

While the weaving asa-oke cloth is carried out by men, indigo resist-dyeing (adire) is done by women. The Yoruba use two methods: the first is tie-dyeing by tightly winding thread (cotton or raffia) around a bunched up area of material. while more elaborate designs are produced by stitching the material tightly into patterns. The second method (adire aleko) uses candle wax or cassava paste to draw on the material either using stencils or freehand, as in batik production. Cloth-tying is always done by women or young girls and the dyeing by women.

In Nigeria the traditional source of indigo is called 'elu' - vines which are cultivated by women around their houses. The plant is gathered and pounded in large vessels until it forms a pulp which is made into balls before being dried in the sun and finally wrapped in leaves for storage or sale. To release the indigo dye, the plant is first fermented and then mixed in an alkaline solution obtained from ash. Indigo dyeing of patterned material (adire) is done in large earthenware pots.
Unknown (person) c 1950 - 1960

Source

Gift of Clare Maguire, 2006
4 October, 2006

Cite this Object

Yoruba man's indigo-dyed tunic, Nigeria 2015, Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, accessed 28 June 2017, <https://ma.as/360280>
{{cite web |url=https://ma.as/360280 |title=Yoruba man's indigo-dyed tunic, Nigeria |author=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences |access-date=28 June 2017 |publisher=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, Australia}}
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