Shoe, single, women’s ‘Swan’, leather, Tokio Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1983

Made by Kumagai, Tokio in Milan, Italy, 1983.

Single womens sling back shoe of cemented construction with almond toe and covered stiletto heel. The shoes consist of [metallicised] red leather upper featuring a cut out and stitched vamp, shaped in the form of a swan’s head, with beak in gold leather and metal stud denoting the eye. The outside quarter features stitched and cut out detailing to denote a wing. The slingback features red elastic at the back. The lining and sock is in gold coloured leather. The covered heel features a gold strip...

Summary

Object No.

97/126/4

Physical Description

Single womens sling back shoe of cemented construction with almond toe and covered stiletto heel. The shoes consist of [metallicised] red leather upper featuring a cut out and stitched vamp, shaped in the form of a swan's head, with beak in gold leather and metal stud denoting the eye. The outside quarter features stitched and cut out detailing to denote a wing. The slingback features red elastic at the back. The lining and sock is in gold coloured leather. The covered heel features a gold strip at the top above the red and features a rubber top piece. The black leather sole is polished. Autumn/Winter collection 1983.

Marks

Trademark stitched on synthetic fabric stitched to sock, "TOKIO KUMAGAI/PARIS" perpendicular to main name "MADE IN ITALY", white paper label on sole, printed in black, "ART. 724 = P2/ LAMINATED ROSSO/ RIP. =CAP.PLATINO/ TRACCO 7219/ FODERA platino", leather mark on waist of sole, stamped hide shape with text within, "VERO CUOIO" beneath, "MADE IN ITALY/ 36"

Dimensions

Height

135 mm

Width

75 mm

Production

Notes

Tokio Kumagai was known for his unusual shoe making designs and his ability to successfully utilize shoes beyond their functional purpose. Combining traditional construction shapes and witty detail, his designs were very fashionable in the 1980s.

After Tokio Kumagai (born Japan, 1948 - died France, 1987) completed his studies in Tokyo in 1970 he headed for Paris where he worked with Castlebajac and later with Cerruti in Italy. In 1981 he opened his first shoe boutique in Paris at the exclusive address of Place des Victoire. Kumagai is famous for representing in his shoe designs the work of artists such as Dali, Kandinsky and Mondrian as well as playfully mimicking subjects such as sportscars, mice or African art. It is this innovative approach to design, incorporating handpainting as well as a wide range of materials, which has ensured Kumagai's shoes as collector's items.

After Kumagai died, his Italian agent and friend, Amelio Zagato of Heresco, continued his role to produce shoes based on Kumagai's original designs from the 1980s.

The shoes were made in Italy by Heresco under the name of Tokio Kumagai.

Made

Kumagai, Tokio 1983

Designed

Kumagai, Tokio null

History

Notes

The shoe have been acquired direct from Amelio Zagato of Heresco in Milan.

Used

Zagato, Amelio

Source

Credit Line

Gift of Amelio Zagato from Heresco, 1997

Acquisition Date

8 May 1997

Cite this Object

Harvard

Shoe, single, women's 'Swan', leather, Tokio Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1983 2018, Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, accessed 19 November 2018, <https://ma.as/155355>

Wikipedia

{{cite web |url=https://ma.as/155355 |title=Shoe, single, women's 'Swan', leather, Tokio Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1983 |author=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences |access-date=19 November 2018 |publisher=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, Australia}}

Incomplete

This object record is currently incomplete. Other information may exist in a non-digital form. The Museum continues to update and add new research to collection records.

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