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96/386/8 Evening dress with stole, silk / ostrich feather, designed and made by Chanel, Paris, France, Spring-Summer 1939. Click to enlarge.

Chanel evening dress with stole

Made
Over the four decades that Gabrielle Chanel worked in haute couture she created many diverse styles of dress. She was known in the 1920s for her cardigan suits or sheath-like dresses and the 1950s and early 1960s when her braid trimmed, English tweed suits fastened with gilt buttons, became the default uniform for many affluent matrons.

Arguably, Chanel's designs from the 1930s are less recognisable yet it was a period when the designer produced some of her most interesting work such as this …

Summary

Object No.

96/386/8

Object Statement

Evening dress with stole, silk / ostrich feather, designed and made by Chanel, Paris, France, Spring-Summer 1939

Physical Description

Full length evening dress in lightweight silk plain weave with painterly feather print of cyclamen in green, blue and yellow on black background. The strapless bodice is appliqued with fabric feather cut-outs and trimmed with variegated pink dyed ostrich feathers. A boned inner bodice of rayon gros grain supports the line. The skirt has flared panels and is similarly appliqued with fabric feathers all the way to the hem. The skirt is lined in black rayon with a [later addition] silk chiffon bias flounce panel. Dress closes at centre back with press studs.

Accessorised with an unlabelled pink dyed ostrich feather asymmetric stole; the major piece over one shoulder like a wing; this is secured around neck with a boa extension; wing lined in pink silk chiffon. The colour of the feathers is slightly different to those on the dress suggesting that this stole may have been made later, possibly by a different maker.

Marks

Dress: Label 'CHANEL' in left side seam, couture number stamped underside of label '49764'
Stole: no label

Dimensions

Height

1550 mm

Width

500 mm

Production

Notes

The stole has slightly different coloured feathers to the dress. It may have been made by a different maker than Chanel.

History

Notes

The dress was photographed in US Vogue, 15 March 1939, page 60.

Source

Credit Line

Purchased 1996

Acquisition Date

9 June 1998

Cite this Object

Harvard

Chanel evening dress with stole 2022, Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, accessed 8 August 2022, <https://ma.as/153369>

Wikipedia

{{cite web |url=https://ma.as/153369 |title=Chanel evening dress with stole |author=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences |access-date=8 August 2022 |publisher=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, Australia}}