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93/27/6 Border band, embroidered and bobbin lace, hemp / cotton, maker unknown, possibly made in Italy, fabric made 1550, embroidered 1801-1900. Click to enlarge.

Lace border band made in Italy

Made
This border is best considered in its separate components since the bobbin lace is clearly of a different texture and rather crudely stitched to the cutwork, indicating that it was a later addition.
The cutwork band was probably made during the second half of the 16th century and SEM analysis confirms that is made of hemp, the remnants of which show that it is quite coarsely woven. This style of cutwork is sometimes described as reticella. Its scale suggests that it was originally a trimming …

Summary

Object No.

93/27/6

Object Statement

Border band, embroidered and bobbin lace, hemp / cotton, maker unknown, possibly made in Italy, fabric made 1550, embroidered 1801-1900

Physical Description

Embroidered lace (cutwork) band with bobbin lace border.

The border is best considered in its separate components since the bobbin lace is clearly of a different texture and rather crudely stitched to the cutwork, indicating that it was a later addition.

The cutwork band was possibly made during the second half of the 16th century and SEM analysis confirms that is made of hemp. The remnants of the base fabric show that it is quite coarsely woven. This style of cutwork is sometimes described as reticella. Its scale suggests that it was originally a trimming for domestic linen. The design and construction of the main central section of the band consisting of circles and semi-circles alternating with broken circles, is typical of the period.
The bobbin lace, which SEM analysis confirms as cotton, is a design of the first half of the 17th century, which might have trimmed a collar or cuffs. It uses the continuous bobbin lace technique in which pattern and ground are worked together with the one set of threads, so that the wider the lace the more threads are used. The smoothness and regularity of the cotton thread suggest that it may have been made in the 19th century, despite the early use of cotton

Dimensions

Width

116 mm

Production

Made

Made

Notes

The cutwork band is made up of heavy curved buttonholed and picoted bars outside a finer curve of spaced and twisted buttonhole stitches. The rectangular grid of threads of the base fabric are needle-woven and the supplementary diagonal threads are wrapped to create a lighter effect.

The bobbin laceuses the continuous technique in which pattern and ground are worked together with the one set of threads, so that the wider the lace the more threads are used. The techniques used are plaiting, twisted bars and areas of cloth stitch and cloth-and-twist.
The smoothness and regularity of the cotton thread suggest that the lace was made in the 19th century to an earlier design.

SEM analysis shows the cutwork band to be hemp and the bobbin lace cotton. both are Z spun and plyed 2S

Source

Credit Line

Purchased 1993

Acquisition Date

15 February 1993

Cite this Object

Harvard

Lace border band made in Italy 2021, Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, accessed 23 September 2021, <https://ma.as/132846>

Wikipedia

{{cite web |url=https://ma.as/132846 |title=Lace border band made in Italy |author=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences |access-date=23 September 2021 |publisher=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, Australia}}