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93/27/3 Lace border, bobbin lace, linen, maker unknown, Italy / Flanders, early 1600s. Click to enlarge.

Bobbin lace border

Possibly made
This bobbin lace border was probably used to trim a fashionable collar or cuffs of around 1620. It was possibly made in Flanders (today Belgium) and SEM analysis confirms it is made of linen thread. Although it shows more sophisticated design and workmanship than the simple seaming laces of the previous century, the border uses the same continuous bobbin lace technique in which pattern and ground are worked together with the one set of threads, so that the wider the lace the more threads are …

Summary

Object No.

93/27/3

Object Statement

Lace border, bobbin lace, linen, maker unknown, Italy / Flanders, early 1600s

Physical Description

Lace border, bobbin lace, linen, maker unknown, probably made in Italy, early 1600s

This border is also made of quite fine cream thread. It is composed of deep scallops linked by a dense narrow band of cloth work and three plaited bars. Each scallop has a large decorated inner circle and a smaller outer wheel motif which is extended to form the headside. The footside is a continuous narrow mesh band. The stitches used are cloth stitch, cloth-and-twist, and four thread plaiting with or without picots. The method of working this lace is typical in that the cloth work band carries (doubled or trebled to save stitch width) all the threads necessary to work the scallop outwards along one side to the headside curve and then inwards along the other side to the next cloth band.

Dimensions

Width

67 mm

Depth

325 mm

Production

Possibly made

Possibly made

Notes

SEM analysis by Angharad Rixon confirms that the thread is linen, 2-ply, Z spin-Sply
This bobbin lace uses the continuous technique in which pattern and ground are worked together with the one set of threads, so that the wider the lace the more threads are used. The stitches used are cloth stitch, cloth-and-twist, and four thread plaiting with or without picots. The method of working this lace is typical in that the cloth work band carries (doubled or trebled to save stitch width) all the threads necessary to work the scallop outwards along one side to the headside curve and then inwards along the other side to the next cloth band.

The following laces were subjected to SEM analysis by Angharad Rixon in 2001: 24 laces in all

91/2064
93/27/1
93/27/2
93/27/3
93/27/4
93/27/5
93/27/6
93/27/7
93/27/8
A8960
A8961
A9148 -4
A9148-9/1
A9148-10
A9148-11
A9148-14a
A924814b
A9148-15
A9148-16
H3771
H3891
H5111-80
H5111- 81
H6419

History

Notes

Purchased from Elizabeth Gibbons, London, in 1993

Source

Credit Line

Purchased 1993

Acquisition Date

14 February 1993

Cite this Object

Harvard

Bobbin lace border 2021, Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, accessed 23 September 2021, <https://ma.as/132843>

Wikipedia

{{cite web |url=https://ma.as/132843 |title=Bobbin lace border |author=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences |access-date=23 September 2021 |publisher=Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, Australia}}